Bi-Wiring and Bi-Amping Explained

What bi-wiring, passive bi-amping and active bi-amping actually change, and when each is worth trying.

Many loudspeakers have two pairs of terminals, one for the bass section and one for the treble, joined by metal links. That makes several connection options possible.

Bi-wiring

Remove the links and run two separate cable runs from the same amplifier output, one to each pair of terminals. The bass and treble crossover sections then no longer share a single cable. Results vary from inaudible to a modest gain in clarity, and it costs only a second cable run. Never leave the links in place when bi-wiring with separate cables.

Passive bi-amping

Use two power amplifiers, one driving the bass terminals and one the treble, with the speaker's own passive crossover still doing the frequency splitting. The amplifiers should be identical, or at least have matched gain, or the tonal balance will shift. The main benefit is that each amplifier sees a simpler load.

Active bi-amping

An electronic crossover splits the signal before the power amplifiers, and each amplifier connects directly to its driver with no passive crossover in between. It is the most effective approach, with lower distortion, better control and more efficient use of power. But it usually needs a speaker designed or modified for it, which is why it is most common in dedicated active loudspeakers.

Is it worth it?

Try bi-wiring if you already have suitable cable. Consider passive bi-amping if you own two matching amplifiers. For the biggest gains, look at loudspeakers designed to run actively from the start.